Blind climber Jesse Dufton, 40, continues to lead difficult rock routes using touch, experience and verbal guidance despite having no useful vision. He is preparing for a trip to Chile and hopes to represent his country at the 2028 Paralympic Games in Los Angeles.
Dufton does not join climbing trips as a member who follows others. Instead, he moves ahead of the team to scout the route, place metal protection equipment and secure the path for those behind him. He considers leading routes the true measure of a climber’s ability, particularly because a fall while leading can have serious consequences.
Difficult routes and notable achievements
Dufton came to prominence after becoming the first blind person to lead a climb of the 137-metre Old Man of Hoy sea stack in the Orkney archipelago. This year, he climbed the extremely difficult Bat Out of Hell route in England’s Peak District.
The route required him to jump and swing to reach unseen rock holds, relying on his confidence that they were there and his ability to read rock formations. Two years ago, according to the source material, Dufton became the first blind person to lead a climb of the 264-metre Devils Tower in the US state of Wyoming.
Dufton is currently preparing for a trip to Chile and also hopes to climb a 500-foot icefall in Canada. He says his biggest challenge remains confronting natural obstacles outdoors, rather than competing in indoor venues.
Verbal guidance and accumulated experience
His wife, Molly, accompanies him on his adventures and guides him by radio during climbs. However, the height or conditions of a route can sometimes prevent him from hearing her instructions, forcing him to rely on his experience and strength to continue.
Dufton says the sight he misses most is his wife’s face, while the sounds of wind and waves and his sense of inner satisfaction take the place of viewing landscapes from summits.
A journey that began in childhood
Dufton began climbing with his father at the age of two in Snowdonia and led his first route when he was 11. He had severe visual impairment that was later diagnosed as cone dystrophy, before realizing at 15 that his sight would disappear completely.
Despite his deteriorating vision, Dufton continued his studies and earned a doctorate in materials chemistry. He works as a patent specialist to fund his expeditions. He says he does not want special treatment because of his disability and refuses to let blindness stop him from climbing.
According to the source, Dufton is preparing to represent his country at the 2028 Paralympic Games in Los Angeles, while maintaining that his most important test remains on open natural routes.